How to Buy a Pearl

When an object such as a grain of sand becomes lodged in an oyster, it is coated with many layers of a smooth, hard crystalline substance known as nacre. After a period of time, this natural process produces the luminescent gem called pearl.

Natural, or Oriental pearls are still cultivated in the Persian Gulf and Indian Ocean, though most pearls sold today are cultured. The culturing process is an important industry in Japan. It was developed during the early part of the 20th century. The quality of pearls varies dramatically, just like other gemstones. Like most of nature's creations, only few are beautiful enough for fine jewelry.

Qualities of a Pearl

Lustre and Nacre thickness: Lustre is determined by a combination of surface brilliance and a deep seated glow. Thus, the thick layers of iridescence surrounding a pearl's nucleus dramatically affects its lustre. Quality pearl lustre is created by heavy nacre and fine surface polish.

Surface: A valuable pearl has a clean, smooth, blemish-free surface.

Shape: Flawlessly round pearls are the rarest and most precious. Baroque pearls, which are asymmetrical in shape, can be lustrous and appealing, and are often less expensive than round pearls.

Color: Cultured pearls come in a spectrum of shades from rose to black. The color may be acquired by the oyster or applied by man. Dyed pearls are far less expensive. Regardless of color, it should appear to originate from deep within the pearl.

Size: Cultured pearls are measured by millimeters. They can range from smaller than one millimeter, as in the case of tiny seed pearls, or as large as twenty millimeters for a big South Sea pearl. Like diamonds or any precious gem, size influences price.

Name of Pearls

Pearls are labeled based on their origin.

AKOYA - Cultured in the islands of Japan, and are the most common pearls. Sizes range from 2 to 11 mm.

CHINESE FRESHWATER - These pearls are cultivated in mussels found in lakes and rivers. This environment allows the pearls grow in a wide variety of colors and shapes. Due to the increased supply, these pearls are very affordable.

SOUTH SEA PEARLS - Cultured from the silver or white-lip oyster, primarily in the northern waters of Australia, Indonesia and the Philippines. These pearls grow to extraordinary sizes; 10 to 20 mm and are highly prized and precious.

TAHITIAN PEARLS - These pearls are cultured from the black-lip oyster in the waters of the South Pacific. They come in larger sizes, from 8 to 20 mm, and vary in color including black, gray, burgundy, peacock and gold. The popularity of Tahitian pearls has increased in recent years, making strands of these pearls one of the most sought-after pieces of jewelry.